4th of July

August 7, 2010

I missed the 4th of July this year. I mean, the day occurred, people celebrated, barbecues were held and fireworks were set off, but I had none of that. I was in Manas Air Base, Kyrgyzstan, and although they did have a barbecue, it was nothing like how the 4th should be.

Tonight made up for all of that.

Today was an off-day for us, so we made sure the vehicles had the proper fluid levels and our weapons were working correctly. Maintenance day pretty much. I went for a run around 4 p.m. and the clouds were looking quite ominous, but not quite to the point where buckets of rain came pouring down. I did my usual things: dinner, TV, etc. Capt. Petro and I were standing outside talking and watching the clouds when he pointed out that there was a photographer on the roof of one of the buildings in the SEAL compound. We talked about the landscape and what a nice view FOB Lane had. Right around that time the clouds decided to open up.

The rain was so cold.

Big drops began to hit all over the place. Before I ran inside, I decided to run around the side of the building to see what the photographer was taking pictures of. "Ahh that is why!!" I thought to myself. I ran back to the other side to tell Capt. Petro.

"Sir, I know why the photographer was taking pictures," I told him. "The sun is setting and the entire sky is orange!"

I went back to my room to grab my camera and then met him back in the front of the building. We sat out there and watched the rain and the sun set over the mountains.

I'm going to slow it down really quick to talk about the landscape here. Arghendab District really has breathtaking views. Every time I step out of my door I realize the beauty of this place time and time again. Hiking these ridges/hills/mountains (whatever you want to call them) has been the highlight of my trip so far. The landscape is truly beautiful. Okay, back to the story.

We were sitting there talking to some of the Rangers here when we hear a very loud "BOOM!"

"What was that?"

"Sounded like a mortar," someone replied.

All of a sudden one of the observation posts down the road starts lighting up the sky with tracer rounds from a machine gun, shooting at the top of a ridge about half a mile from us.

Then chimed in a second machine gun, this time coming from the FOB.

By this time, everyone is moving for their rooms to grab their gear. The warning siren begins to screech.

"Is this really happening?" I began to ask myself. Sure enough I suppose.

Capt. Petro got all of the guys together and told us to go to the SEAL compound for accountability. As we get to the entrance of the compound, a .50 caliber machine gun about 30 feet above us bursts off four or five rounds. It scared the crap out of me, and I think everyone I was with had the same reaction.

"That is the first time I have ever heard that thing go off," Capt. Petro said.

The next half hour entails us standing underneath a hardened shelter watching what must have been a dozen machine guns lighting up the side of the ridge with tracer rounds. The red streaks against the almost black sky made me want to kick myself in the head for not bringing my camera to record it. It was really an awesome sight. Tracers were going everywhere! And the .50 Cal only 20 yards from us was no joke. The guy up there must have gone through 1,000 rounds easily!

And then came the flares.

The Army shot up one at a time. It was a beautiful sight. A bright red streak would rocket into the air, break up into three or four burning streaks and slowly float back to the ground. And then came a green flare. Then another red. Then a purple (I think. Maybe blue? I forget). It reminded me of really lame fireworks. You know, the do-it-yourself kind, not the professional firework shows.

A couple of jets flew overhead. Ahh, the sound of freedom! I couldn't tell what they were, but they sounded like a one-engine jet. Maybe F-16s? They didn't drop bombs or anything, but I'm sure just the sound of the engines in the black of night is enough to deter any other attempts to attack the base.

After a while, the sounds of machine gun fire finally settled down. The only sound left was the distinct tone of rain hitting the tin roofs on the buildings around us and the occasional mortar being directed at our enemy.

We were released from our position and finally made our way back to our rooms.

And that was my belated, Afghan-version of the 4th of July.

The Funeral

August 5, 2010

Note: These next two stories have no photos, but were from my time at Forward Operating Base Lane in Arghandab District, about 40 kilometers north of Qalat City.

Today we were invited to a memorial service for a fallen brother, an guard working for ASG here, who was killed by the Taliban a few days ago.

We got there just before the service started. An old man was praying aloud and I will never forget the faces of the comrades in arms - soldiers, civilians, special forces - all had come to pay their respects. U.S., Afghan, coalition, they all were there. The ASG guards who had worked closely with the man looked intently into space. I tried to imagine what they could be thinking. Maybe a memorable story they shared with the deceased? Maybe resent towards the Americans? I only knew that there was a deep sadness that pierced the heart of everyone who knew the man.

After the prayers were done, we had chai together. After two or three glasses of tea, we were invited to have a meal with them. They asked the Americans to come to be served first. They took us to a room where there were plates with rice, eggplant and goat meat presented before us. Also, there was a bottle of water, a Mirinda orange soda, and plastic cutlery. I saved my fork and spoon after the meal, since FOB Lane has a severe shortage of supplies. We are forced to reuse our plastic bowls and there is no silverware, so I jumped at the thought of not having to eat with my hands or tear a styrofoam cup to use as a spoon.

It is such an awkward and humbling experience to be served by the people who must be grieving the most.

My heart goes out to the family of this brave man who laid down his life trying to create a better life for his people.

TCP

As a measure to stop the Taliban from smuggling goods through the city, we set up a traffic control point a couple of nights ago to help deter (and possibly detain) some of these guys. Here are some photos of our guys in action. I did a little bit of vehicle and people searching as well.

QALAT CITY, Afghanistan -- U.S. Army Spc. Neal Perry, Provincial Reconstruction Team Zabul security forces grenadier, controls traffic on a road that passes through Qalat City at a traffic control point, Zabul Province, July 29, 2010. As a combined team, the PRT and the Afghan National Police inspected all vehicles entering and exiting the city for contraband. (U.S. Air Force photo/Senior Airman Nathanael Callon/Released)

QALAT CITY, Afghanistan -- U.S. Army Spc. Nicholas Nutting, Provincial Reconstruction Team Zabul security forces grenadier, searches an Afghan man at a traffic control point outside Qalat City, Zabul Province, July 29, 2010. As a combined team, the PRT and the Afghan National Police inspected all vehicles entering and exiting the city for contraband. (U.S. Air Force photo/Senior Airman Nathanael Callon/Released)



I love this photo, he looks so dejected:

QALAT CITY, Afghanistan -- U.S. Army Staff Sgt. Patrick Neilson III, Provincial Reconstruction Team Zabul security forces squad leader, takes a quick break from inspecting vehicles at a traffic control point outside Qalat City, Zabul Province, July 29, 2010. As a combined team, the PRT and the Afghan National Police inspected all vehicles entering and exiting the city for contraband. (U.S. Air Force photo/Senior Airman Nathanael Callon/Released)


It started getting dark on us, so we set up our NVGs and made sure we had our IR chem lights activated as well. Can't be too careful!

QALAT CITY, Afghanistan -- U.S. Army Spc. Nicholas Nutting, Provincial Reconstruction Team Zabul security forces grenadier, secures a chemical light to his vest at a traffic control point outside Qalat City, Zabul Province, July 29, 2010. As a combined team, the PRT and the Afghan National Police inspected all vehicles entering and exiting the city for contraband. (U.S. Air Force photo/Senior Airman Nathanael Callon/Released)

QALAT CITY, Afghanistan -- U.S. Army Spc. Derrik Fiasco, Provincial Reconstruction Team Zabul automatic rifleman, provides overwatch for his team at a traffic control point outside Qalat City, Zabul Province, July 29, 2010. As a combined team, the PRT and the Afghan National Police inspected all vehicles entering and exiting the city for contraband. (U.S. Air Force photo/Senior Airman Nathanael Callon/Released)

QALAT CITY, Afghanistan -- Members of Provincial Reconstruction Team Zabul flag down a vehicle for inspection at a traffic control point outside Qalat City, Zabul Province, July 29, 2010. As a combined team, the PRT and the Afghan National Police inspected all vehicles entering and exiting the city for contraband. (U.S. Air Force photo/Senior Airman Nathanael Callon/Released)


And that was our night in photo form. Sorry it is so short today, but I'm busy busy busy!

FOB Life

Well, a couple more days have passed since I've written anything. This has been another slow week for me, as missions have been cancelled and other events have taken place. I'll show you guys a little bit about life on Forward Operating Base Smart:

This is my room, hardly big enough for two people co-inhabiting a space with all their gear and personal stuff. We make it work though, I suppose.

And this is one of our FOB puppies, Izzy. She walked into my room one day while I was busy doing something in there, sniffed around a little, and then plopped on the floor and instantly fell asleep. I think she knew the room was air conditioned so she took refuge right there on top of my laundry. It is still pretty warm here and I felt bad, so I let her take a little nap and I kept myself busy listening to music. All in all, I would say they are pretty spoiled pups. They mooch off every person that comes out of the dining facility with food.

The FOB is usually pretty quiet. It sits on the outside of Qalat City and has pretty good security. Occasionally a mortar round flies over the FOB, but luckily there have been no injuries or damage. Of course, this really isn't much of a stresser, since at Balad last year we would hear the sirens and explosions go off all the time. Some poor new taliban recruit's final exam, and he failed it. Good job on having horrible aim and hurting your own people though! ... Jackass.

QALAT CITY, Afghanistan -- U.S. Army Staff Sgt. Clarence Washington, Provincial Reconstruction Team Zabul security forces squad leader, takes accountability after an indirect fire attack in Qalat City, Zabul Province, July 27, 2010. There were no coalition forces casualties during the attack. Members of PRT Zabul regularly prepare and train for indirect and direct fire attacks to ensure security and accountability during real world incidents. (U.S. Air Force photo/Senior Airman Nathanael Callon/Released)

No worries everybody, we're all doing good! :]

Presence

Last night we went on a "presence patrol." I have also heard the unofficial "show of force patrol" term used as well. The second one is probably not politically correct. Either one you choose is basically a group of U.S. soldiers (or airmen and sailors... maybe the coasties too. Who knows...) walking around town and letting people know we are still here. Here is where the terms differ. The PP (presence patrol) reassures the innocent that we're looking for the bad guys. The SoF patrol is essentially telling the Taliban that we're on the government's side, so quit effing around or we'll kill you. Simple enough.

So we leave the FOB and start walking around town, just making sure there's nothing suspicious going on in the bazaar area and we make our way to the outside of the city. We walk through this little "neighborhood" of trash houses. When I say trash houses, I mean it. These little huts are made of whatever they can manage to get their hands on. There were goats and mangy dogs everywhere. All I could think is how I could never imagine living that way. Very sad.

One of the trash houses.

Just past the shantytown the terrain slopes up a little, so we were able to get a nice little overlook of the area.

QALAT CITY, Afghanistan -- U.S. Army Staff Sgt. Patrick Neilson III, Provincial Reconstruction Team Zabul security forces squad leader, scans the horizon for activity as Cpl. Michael McGee and U.S. Air Force Tech. Sgt. Jimmy Sosa, PRT Zabul members, look on during a presence patrol through Qalat City, Zabul Province, July 23, 2010. PRT Zabul supports and facilitates the legitimacy of the Afghan national and local governments through regional reconstruction, security and stability of the province. (U.S. Air Force photo/Senior Airman Nathanael Callon/Released)

After a short stop, we continued down the valley, across the highway and to the base of Alexander's Castle (google it! Supposedly Alexander the Great built the fortress. Qalat actually means fortress according to Wikipedia, how fitting.)

QALAT CITY, Afghanistan -- U.S. Army Sgt. James Wilson, Provincial Reconstruction Team Zabul security forces team leader, walks down a hill during a presence patrol along the outskirts of Qalat City, Zabul Province, July 23, 2010. PRT Zabul supports and facilitates the legitimacy of the Afghan national and local governments through regional reconstruction, security and stability of the province. (U.S. Air Force photo/Senior Airman Nathanael Callon/Released)

I kind of like how this one came out. Very eery!

It was getting dark by the time we made it to the base of the castle. After taking a few minutes to catch our breath and hydrate, we started our way back down and back into the city. This part of the story felt like it came right out of a movie.

Hmm, how should I explain this part...

By the time we entered the bazaar, the sun was long gone. The streets were dark and there were people everywhere. The only light came from inside some of the shops and the occasional flashlights that blinked on and off to get traffic to stop. It was very disorienting. Adrenaline was quickly starting to pump through my veins. I could feel my heart in my fingers. The combination of dark and the general unknown of what could be lying in the area made my senses prick up.

Then a voice from behind me hollered "Keep an eye on those rooftops."

I looked to my left and right. There was fighting-aged men lining the balconies on both sides of the street.

As we continued I would notice movement in upstairs rooms where the silhouettes would change position and the dim light would suddenly be covered up. What could be in those buildings? Could someone be running to grab a weapon and spray us from the darkness? Where would I go? What cover is available? A million questions were simultaneously running through my mind (thanks to combat training). Of course, you always hope for the best and expect the worst.

QALAT CITY, Afghanistan -- U.S. Air Force 1st Lt. Georganne Hassell, Provincial Reconstruction Team Zabul information operations officer, walks down a street during a presence patrol in Qalat City, Zabul Province, July 23, 2010. PRT Zabul supports and facilitates the legitimacy of the Afghan national and local governments through regional reconstruction, security and stability of the province. (U.S. Air Force photo/Senior Airman Nathanael Callon/Released)

I think that photo kind of characterizes the blur of the moment.

We finally made it through the bazaar area and maneuvered our way through the side streets.

QALAT CITY, Afghanistan -- Members of Provincial Reconstruction Team Zabul adjust their night vision optics during a presence patrol in Qalat City, Zabul Province, July 23, 2010. PRT Zabul supports and facilitates the legitimacy of the Afghan national and local governments through regional reconstruction, security and stability of the province. (U.S. Air Force photo/Senior Airman Nathanael Callon/Released)

We stopped and searched a few people just to make sure they weren't carrying anything illegal. Our mission was relatively uneventful, but I guess that is a good thing, right? Besides the whole bazaar scene, everything seemed very natural. I have been on a few foot patrols since I've been here, so that was nothing new. Just the low-light condition was a very new experience.

Anyways, that's about all I've got for today. The photos weren't great, very grainy because of the low light and nothing that really struck me as a great photo. But that happens sometimes!

Motivation

Today was just another day. Wake up early, get dressed, eat breakfast, jump in the trucks, take pictures, get back, upload pictures, sleep. I managed to throw a wrench in the machine today.

Last night while I was working out, I managed to pull something in my upper back. I don't know what I exactly did, but it hurts like crazy. I may have pinched a nerve or something. Not sure. Anyways, it hurt enough that I was unable to sleep the majority of the night, and when I woke up, I could barely get out of bed. The first thing I did was hobble to my shelf and pop a few 500mg tylenol. There was no way I was going to be able to go on a mission feeling like this!

I decided I was still going to try and go, so I got dressed, ate breakfast, brushed my teeth, and grab my gear. It wasn't until I was in the truck and driving out the back gate that the tylenol began to kick in a little. "Finally," I thought to myself. I was considering staying back and going to sick call, but I am glad I didn't. I think I manage to capture a few good photos from the day.

As I sit here in my room writing this, all I can think of is that this is probably how an old man feels. My back is killing me.

Anyways, here are the photos. I hope you like them.

QALAT CITY, Afghanistan -- Afghan children watch from their front door as members of Provincial Reconstruction Team Zabul pass by during a visit to a village in Qalat District, Zabul Province, July 21, 2010. PRT Zabul supports and facilitates the legitimacy of the Afghan national and local governments through regional reconstruction, security and stability of the province. (U.S. Air Force photo/Senior Airman Nathanael Callon/Released)

QALAT CITY, Afghanistan -- An village elder participates in a shura with members of the Zabul Provincial Government and Provincial Reconstruction Team Zabul in a village in Qalat District, Zabul Province, July 21, 2010. A shura is a traditional meeting where tribal elders discuss major issues and make the best decisions for their tribe. PRT Zabul supports and facilitates the legitimacy of the Afghan national and local governments through regional reconstruction, security and stability of the province. (U.S. Air Force photo/Senior Airman Nathanael Callon/Released)

I have a few problems with Afghanistan. My latest gripe is the lack of motivation. Every child expects candy, or a pen. They'll even ask for your camera! It doesn't stop with the children. The elders of the village we met with didn't want a well dug or anything like that. They just wanted money. It is like that everywhere. They do not want to earn anything. They expect a blank check from their government, from the foreigners, from whoever will give it to them. It is like welfare in the States times 1,000. I don't know if all of Afghanistan is this way (I'm assuming it is), but Zabul is this way. Very annoying.

QALAT CITY, Afghanistan -- U.S. Army Staff Sgt. Clarence Washington, Provincial Reconstruction Team Zabul security forces squad leader, walks up a small ridge while providing security during a shura a village in Qalat District, Zabul Province, July 21, 2010. A shura is a traditional meeting where tribal elders discuss major issues and make the best decisions for their tribe. (U.S. Air Force photo/Senior Airman Nathanael Callon/Released)

QALAT CITY, Afghanistan -- A young Afghan boy practices writing his name on his hand to show a U.S. soldier from Provincial Reconstruction Team Zabul in a village in Qalat District, Zabul Province, July 21, 2010. PRT Zabul supports and facilitates the legitimacy of the Afghan national and local governments through regional reconstruction, security and stability of the province. (U.S. Air Force photo/Senior Airman Nathanael Callon/Released)

QALAT CITY, Afghanistan -- U.S. Army Staff Sgt. Patrick Neilson III, Provincial Reconstruction Team Zabul security forces squad leader, stands on a wall to get a better view of the area while providing security during a shura in a village in Qalat District, Zabul Province, July 21, 2010. PRT Zabul supports and facilitates the legitimacy of the Afghan national and local governments through regional reconstruction, security and stability of the province. (U.S. Air Force photo/Senior Airman Nathanael Callon/Released)

I wanted to show a little different variety of photos this time. It is so easy to get cool shots of the SecFor guys. There is nothing more cool than guys in camouflage, gear and decked out weapons. Blame it on Hollywood, video games or G.I. Joe from your childhood, but it still makes you think to yourself "sweet". At least it does for me.

Walking

Today was yet another adventurous day. The mission: to go meet with elders in a village off Highway 1. The obstacles: steep hills, a stream, canal, more hills, sizzling sunshine (that is how AccuWeather.com described today, a mere 109F). The distance we travelled was probably about three miles, but it felt much farther than that. The cool thing about this little hike was the scenery.

QALAT CITY, Afghanistan -- U.S. Army Staff Sgt. Patrick Neilson III, Provincial Reconstruction Team Zabul squad leader, waits to move out during a dismounted patrol to meet with villagers in Zabul Province, July 19, 2010. PRT Zabul supports and facilitates the legitimacy of the Afghan national and local governments through regional reconstruction, security and stability of the province. (U.S. Air Force photo/Senior Airman Nathanael Callon/Released)

I'll show a little bit of the terrain we covered.

The canal (nobody fell in. I was surprised!)

QALAT CITY, Afghanistan -- U.S. Army Sgt. Robert Crosier, Provincial Reconstruction Team Zabul team leader, crosses a canal as Spc. Timothy Davis, PRT Zabul rifleman, helps him across during a dismounted patrol to meet with villagers in Zabul Province, July 19, 2010. PRT Zabul supports and facilitates the legitimacy of the Afghan national and local governments through regional reconstruction, security and stability of the province. (U.S. Air Force photo/Senior Airman Nathanael Callon/Released)

Walking.

QALAT CITY, Afghanistan -- Members of Provincial Reconstruction Team Zabul walk along a road during a dismounted patrol to meet with villagers and deliver pesticides to help their crops in Zabul Province, July 19, 2010. PRT Zabul supports and facilitates the legitimacy of the Afghan national and local governments through regional reconstruction, security and stability of the province. (U.S. Air Force photo/Senior Airman Nathanael Callon/Released)

More walking and hills (our village is still nowhere to be found)

QALAT CITY, Afghanistan -- Members of Provincial Reconstruction Team Zabul walk along a road during a dismounted patrol to meet with villagers and deliver pesticides to help their crops in Zabul Province, July 19, 2010. PRT Zabul supports and facilitates the legitimacy of the Afghan national and local governments through regional reconstruction, security and stability of the province. (U.S. Air Force photo/Senior Airman Nathanael Callon/Released)

Finally, we made it. After a little bit of confusion (there is always a fair amount of it, I'm beginning to notice), we were able to get some of the elders together for a meeting.

QALAT CITY, Afghanistan -- Members of Provincial Reconstruction Team Zabul meet with villagers during a shura in Zabul Province, July 19, 2010. Shuras allow the government to hear the concerns of their people and decide a course of action to resolve those issues. (U.S. Air Force photo/Senior Airman Nathanael Callon/Released)

Now this is where it starts to get interesting. The trek to get to the village pretty much wiped half of our team's water supply out. I packed my CamelBak, a Gatorade and another half liter water bottle, and I had already emptied my CamelBak and the Gatorade! And the shura hadn't even started.

Master Sgt. Frank, the leader of the shura today, spoke with the elders about various things. Mainly the need for a well near the village and proper usage of pesticides that we had backpacked in for their crops.

The meeting went on. And on. And on.

Calls came over the radio about troops whose water supplies were "black", or empty. It was ridiculously hot out. Even if we left right now, it was still a long walk out the same way we came.

A donkey that passed by.

QALAT CITY, Afghanistan -- U.S. Air Force Master Sgt. Jesse Frank, Provincial Reconstruction Team Zabul military police specialist, speaks with two village elders during a shura in Zabul Province, July 19, 2010. Shuras allow the government to hear the concerns of their people and decide a course of action to resolve those issues. (U.S. Air Force photo/Senior Airman Nathanael Callon/Released)

The meeting kept going.

We did our best to keep cool by sitting on the backside of walls and buildings to keep out of the sun. I was starting to feel the effects of it. I gave some of my water to a guy who had run out about an hour before. We needed to get out of there.

QALAT CITY, Afghanistan -- U.S. Army Cpl. Daniel Lehman, Provincial Reconstruction Team Zabul rifleman, provides security during a shura in a village in Zabul Province, July 19, 2010. PRT Zabul supports and facilitates the legitimacy of the Afghan national and local governments through regional reconstruction, security and stability of the province. (U.S. Air Force photo/Senior Airman Nathanael Callon/Released)

We finally made our way back to where we were parked. Here's to more walking:

QALAT CITY, Afghanistan -- Members of Provincial Reconstruction Team Zabul walk through a farm during a dismounted patrol in Zabul Province, July 19, 2010. The team met with village elders during a shura and were returning to their vehicles. (U.S. Air Force photo/Senior Airman Nathanael Callon/Released)

It was definitely the most exhausting day I have had here. I spent the rest of the day alternating bottles of water and Gatorade to rehydrate myself and get some salt back in me. A couple of the guys actually went to the medics and got IVs. It was that bad. Hopefully we never get stuck out in the middle of the day like that again.

Oh yeah, and my face is a pretty pinkish-red color thanks to the sun!